Climbing Works International Festival 2008

The second international competition at the Climbing Works in Sheffield was held on Saturday 12th April. It turned out to be a very well supported and received event with a big turn out of competitors and spectators. Not only did the Works hold a competition but a free barbeque and a slide show by funny man Niall Grimes to entertain the crowds between the semi final and final. In addition there was a climber’s physiotherapy clinic provided by The Clinic and a Scarpa boot demo. Prize money was very generous with a pot of £3000 with £500 first prize and prizes down to 5th place. There were other prizes from Scarpa for best juniors plus random spot prizes.

The day started at 10am with both a team event and an open event allowing ‘normal boulderers' to mix it with the stars. For the team event the Climbing Works management imported a team of ringers from the Netherlands of all places (well known for its crags – not) and any team that beat Team Wad - Wouter Jongeneelen, Ferdinand Schulte, Nedwin van der Feehally and Vera Zijstra - would win £300. Team Strong compromising Jordan Buys, Leah Crane, Dave Barrans and Dan Bradley did just that (better luck next time Percy!).

Jordan Buys qualifying with a perfect score                                                          The ringers, Team Wad

Both photographs: David Simmonite

As well as letting everyone have a go at all of the thirty problems that started easily and got progressively harder, the open event also decided the line up for the evening’s semi-final on the main competition wall. Sixteen men and the same amount of females would go through. The most notable qualifiers were Steve McClure, Gaz Parry, Andy Earl, the Dutch quartet, Audrey Seguy and Leah Crane. Jordan Buys was the top qualifier flashing every single one of the problems including the double handed dyno for a free swinging ball suspended from a girder.

The semi’s were a tense affair but under a variation of new IFSC Finals format only three males and three females would go through to the final. After a lot of grunting, jumping, crimping and the odd chalk bag kicking Paul Smitton, Wouter Jongeneelen and Andy Earl (out of competition retirement for this event) made it through for the males. Audrey Seguy, Vera Zijstra and the talented junior climber Michaela Tracey for the females.

The finalist's had three problems to climb in four minutes each and although Audrey and Michaela bouldered well, Vera is the current Dutch champion and the reason why was clear putting in a strong and deft performance to win. In the men’s Andy couldn’t recreate his best, Wouter failed to jam and it was left to the young gun Paul Smitton to take the crown. This was Paul’s first major competition win against a very strong field, a brilliant effort.

All that was left was to wrap up the evening with a raffle of generous prizes from the event sponsors before the winnings were handed out and the victors made to stand on the most unusual of podium’s; holds and volumes bolted to the wall on which they had to climb. It was a fun end to a fun day.

Audrey Seguy in the final.The ball is the finish. Photo: David Simmonite

The men's champ Paul Smitton in action. Photo: David Simmonite

The women's winner Vera Zijstra. Photo: David Simmonite

Results

Male

1. Paul Smitton

2. Wouter Jongeneelen

3. Andy Earl

Female

1.  Vera Zijstra

2.  Michaela Tracey

3. Audrey Seguy

The event was supported by Scarpa, Metolius, 5 Finger Thing, Holdz, The Clinic and Berghaus.

Report by David Simmonite.

More photographs and a report will appear in a future edition of Climb, so keep an eye out for it.

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