Dave MacLeod comments on Don’t Die of Ignorance.

Following his fantastic efforts on the Ben with the ground breaking ascent of Don’t Die of Ignorance (XI, 11) Dave MacLeod was kind enough to find time from what are perfect conditions on the hill to answer a few questions regarding the climb.

Dave MacLeod comes indoors for some warmth. Photo:David Simmonite

First of all where is the route and how long is it (pitch wise)?

The route is on the front face of Comb Buttress in Coire na Ciste and its 8 pitches long (275m). The front face of the Comb was one of the first places that got me interested in the idea of climbing new routes. I remember looking at the topo in the Nevis guide at the time and seeing this massive triangular buttress with nothing but one aid route on it. I couldn't understand why. Obviously it's because the lower half is so overhanging, but still it planted a seed to go and climb things there if I ever could. So now it has two free routes on it (Anubis E8 from 2006 and Don't Die).

What kind of thing can a repeat ascentionist expect to find in terms of moves and style?

The angle of the rock plane dictates the moves of the whole crux section. It slopes down aggressively so even though the crack is wide the only way to use it is to turn your axes upside down and tin opener for several metres. Once past the crux tin opener you have to climb a vertical wall to a ledge where the difficulty eases back to VII. That wall is a funny one. I've tried to climb it with no ice (just hoared up) and couldn't. Tried to climb it with seemingly thicker ice, which just broke straight off when I hit it. This time it was on cruddy neve which was the sketchiest bit of climbing I've ever done. I cannot believe I stayed on because my tools ripped several times.

This has been a long term project, when did you first get involved with it?

I first tried it in 2005 with Scott Muir. Scott went out first but couldn't get past the arête. Neither could I. Rather than work it I reversed back to the belay and went home and waited for the conditions again. After two winters of that I eventually sat on a cam at the arête in disgust on my 4th attempt.

I bet you had difficulty getting belayer’s for such a big undertaking?

I suppose so yes because it needed to be someone who could climb well and be good moving up a rope because once you traverse out across the huge wall below you are committed to going up. If you fall off you drop into space and its 50 metres to any non-overhanging rock. I was really grateful to find people to come up at all. It's a lot to take on going up a route like that!

I gather you topped out at 10.30pm?

Probably a bit earlier than that, about 9ish. It was a stunning moonlit night and we didn't even need to use the headtorch to climb.

How long did it take you on the day?

12 hours of climbing. 2.5 hours on the crux pitch and the same for Joe to second it.

How does it compare with your other XI, 11, The Hurting in the Cairngoms?

Overall it was harder for me. The Hurting suited my style better because it gets its grade for a combination of reasonably hard climbing but a lot of boldness. Don't Die is less dangerous but pretty hard and technical.

Dave attempting Don't Die of Ignorance (XI, 11) in 2006 . Hot Aches Images

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I know you've been working hard on your fitness and stamina but what about the mental preparation?

I was in Spain just there and soloed an 8c for a bit of mental preparation. But maybe I should just have stayed at time and tried this because it was a hell of a lot more mentally challenging than the solo!

How does this sit in the history of Scottish winter climbing?

I think not many folk would argue that it's a significant line to be
completed in a significant place in Scotland. Others should really be the judge of where it sits though. If it's inspiring, then it's important. I certainly think it's inspiring.

I bet it was difficult to head out the day after to do some filming on The Hurting?

I was a bit on the slow side it must be said but three cups of tea sorted me out. I ate the biggest mountain of mashed potato you have ever seen when I got home though. It's quite amazing how many calories you burn on an 18 hour mountain day that includes limit climbing and a lot of cold stress.

Now you've had a chance to catch your breath how does it feel a couple of days later and how do you plan to celebrate?

I don't really celebrate doing routes I must say - they themselves are the celebration! I'll take Claire out for a night on the Fort William tiles seeing as she did shiver in the Coire for 7 hours filming and watching interesting situation Joe had getting up to my belay.

Is there anything else you would like to add?

Just a thank you to everyone who held my rope on the route and that Joe did really well to sort himself out from his one handed hanging epic on the crux and recover to climb the upper pitches quickly so we could get the hard stuff out of the way before dark. Great effort!


Thanks for finding time to do this and once again well done.

David Simmonite

You can check out more comments from Dave as well as photographs on his blog at http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/