Steve McClure climbs his Kilnsey project

by David Simmonite

Climb columnist Steve McClure has climbed his desperate Kilnsey project in Yorkshire. Following a brief message from Steve after he had done the deed, it all sounds like it was all too easy for him.

"Hi Dave, Kilnsey route done, way ahead of schedule. What am I supposed to do now? Tried to fall off at the end but couldn't manage it!" was his message, understated as usual because having looked at the line close up when he first jumped on the line I can honestly say that the holds are grim and super thin.

The route starts up Steve Dunning's Northern Exposure, itself an F8b+ that finishes half way up the crag, and then blasts up the remaining crimpy rock. Steve managed it on his second redpoint of the day and with a tentative grade of F9a/9a+ it is certainly up there at the top of the tree.

Two images of Steve McClure on his super thin new route at Kilnsey prior to his successful redpoint. These were taken on earlier attempts at the route. © David Simmonite

The day after the ascent I had a chat with Steve who had this to say:

"A few years ago Steve Dunning climbed the first half of perhaps the last great line at Kilnsey Crag, an obvious blankness standing out through its clear lack of holds! Steve’s route, ‘Northern Exposure’ finishes at an obvious hold, perhaps the only real hold on the route, a flat ledge about half the size of a CD case. His route is 8b+, awkward, reachy and very crimpy! Forget it if it’s hot! Next the climbing gets even harder; the top section is harder than the bottom section! No hold is bigger than the edge of a CD case. Totally continuous, no time to chalk and barely time to clip (clip only one out of 3). A good hold gives time for a shake before leading into the last awkward section of Progress (8c+) and of course, as is the norm, a free hanging bat hang rest!

I first tried it two years ago and found it desperate but very much my style and was hooked, but the route took second place in priority to that at Malham. I had about 5 day’s effort on it, followed by only a single day last year due to the rain. This year conditions were perfect, my memory seemed OK and after just 2 days work I’d managed it in the obvious two sections. Time to hit the redpoints – it went, much to my surprise on my second attempt!"

After remembering how bad the holds were and shaking my head a few times, mainly in disbelief at how quick he had climbed it, conversation continued when I asked him his opinion on the grade,

"I’d originally assumed it to be as hard as Overshadow (9a+), maybe it’s not, but it still feels super hard. I guess I just got lucky. I’d kind of planned this whole spring around trying the line……now what?"

Now what indeed but I'm sure that around the corner will be a dirty, steep, crimpy unclimbed line with Steve's name on it.

Steve is sponsored by Fat Face, Five Ten, Petzl and Entre-Prise

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