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Traditional climbing is the team-sport version of the vertical nonsense we like
to fill our heads with every waking hour of the day. Belaying with two ropes
takes a considerable amount of dexterity and concentration to get it right -
feeding out one rope that your desperately-leg-shaking leader is trying to clip
into the RP0 above his head whilst quickly taking in the other rope that he's
just dropped after pulling up 20m of slack and goes through the only other
runner he's placed and heÕs looking at a 20-footer onto the deck There are
loads of double belay plates on the market, all of which are as simple to look
at as they are tricky to use.
The Sprag: some say he once used a waist belay and that a 50' fall cut him
in half and he had to be sewn back together but they got him the wrong way
round. Others that his high pitched voice is a result of too many
classic abseils. All we know is that he's on holiday this month
and hasnÕt been able to test all these belay plates -
so there's no leaderboard this month.
WILD COUNTRY 
VC PRO 2 £15
VC Pro 2 set With Synergy HMS £23
www.wildcountry.co.uk
For use on ropes from 7.7 twins to ultralight
9mm singles. Turn the VC 2 Pro around to the
smooth side when you need less friction. Double
rope handling requires a bit more control. For
9mm ropes or even the newer thinner cords a
great partner is the new VC Pro. With slightly
thinner slots as well as a ribbed upper it gives
more control on thinner ropes and is superb for
abseiling. Ideally twinned with a Synergy 'biner.
 EDELRID
LOTSE £15.75
www.edelrid.de
This light belay device combines the advantages
of several belay systems. You can pay rope out
quickly yet still 'block' the rope well thanks to the
two side notches. Falls are held dynamically and are
neither hard on the climber nor difficult for the belayer
to hold. Ideal for use when leaders are 'taking their time'.
DMM
BUG £12
BUGETTE £12
 V TWIN £16
www.dmmclimbing.co.uk
The Bug has smooth handling qualities
and fall arresting power. Its ribbed profile
has been designed for maximum heat
dissipation while all edges have been
heavily radiused to reduce rope wear. The
attachment cable is very robust, rigid and
 sufficiently long to prevent it from jamming
between therope and the belay karabiner.
For 9mm-11mm ropes.
The Bugette is a smaller version of The
Bug designed for7.5mm-9.5mm.
 The V Twin is DMM's new,
premium belay device. It is
made from stainless steel
for durability and better
heat dissipation. It stays
a lot cooler on long abs
when compared to its
aluminium counterparts. Weight:
78g. signed for 8.0 to
10.5mm ropes.
 MAD ROCK
PARADOX £14.50
www.madrockclimbing.co.uk
The Paradox features a forged and machined
asymmetric aluminum tube-style body that
regulates the rope friction depending on its orientation.
Anodized for corrosion resistance and stylin' good looks and
a rigid coated steel cable for safety and durability. Feeds
quickly, yet locks off tightly - a Paradox we can understand.
Assorted colours. Weight 68g.
METOLIUS
BRD £15
www.metolius.com
 A simple, safe and bombproof belay / rappel
device, allowing the belayer to easily catch
long, hard falls with relatively light hand
pressure. For rappelling, the BRD will give you a
relatively slow and controlled abseil. If the ab is
moving too slowly, you can re-orient the device for a
speedier descent. The ergonomic horn gives enhanced
control while lowering and rappelling.
Single or double rope compatible (8mm to 11mm ropes).
Increased thermal mass and cooling fins to dissipate heat Hard
anodized for longer wear
CNC machined from 6061 T-6 aluminum
BRD is also available with our new Element belay karabiner
2.9 oz. (82 g) £24.95
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