Adam Ondra repeated Gioia on December 6th, an 8c problem first climbed by Christian Core on his home turf of Potala di Varazze in 2008. Ondra first attempted the problem in February last year, but only suceeded in climbing the standing start at 8b.

Adam Ondra with Christian Core ©Michele Francia

The standing start had already seen repeats from Nicolas Ceria and Gabriele Moroni, but the full fourteen move problem had seen off the likes of Daniel Woods, Dai Koyamada and Chris Webb Parsons. To date only Core, Ondra and Woods have been able to do all the individual moves.

Ondra is also no stranger to hard problems, having repeated several 8cs. Less than a month ago he made the first ascent of Terranova 8c+, a long term project at his local sport crag, Holštejn in the Czech Republic. Although by his own admission not the most aesthetic or interesting line, being a 17 move traverse along the bottom of a bolted limestone crag, it was felt to merit the grade.

Adam Ondra on Gioia ©Michele Francia

The eighteen year old spent eleven days on the problem in total, during each of these only one serious attempt could be made such was the difficulty of the problem. With only one day left in the weather window, Ondra climbed it on his first attempt. He was so spent that he couldn’t even manage individual moves for promotional photos afterwards.

Adam Ondra on Gioia ©Michele Francia

At a time when hard problems are often downgraded by repeat ascentionists, Ondra has suggested that Gioia may be harder than the 8c it was first given by Core. He felt that a grade of 8c+ is justified, an opinion to be taken seriously given that he has climbed six 8c problems in the last year and his own Terranova.

Sources
Alta Montagna - Adam Ondra chiude Gioia confermandolo 8C+
Climbing - Ondra Confirms Gioia at V16
Planet Mountain - Adam Ondra, the pure Gioia interview