The legendary Scottish winter route Guerdon Grooves has finally seen it’s second ascent 28 years after it was first climbed. The route, which traces a bold testing line across the Slime Wall on Glen Coe’s Buachaille Etive Mor, has seen it’s reputation grow as each year passed.

Nick Bullock - a man who appreciates an epic route Ian Parnell

First climbed by Dave ‘Cubby’ Cuthbertson and Arthur Paul in 1984, the route took two attempts, with the first go in particularly epic conditions following a monster storm. Cuthbertson recalls there was almost no rock showing through the powder that buried the route and on the crucial second pitch they were only able to unearth 3 pieces of protection. That time they came within 15feet of easier ground but with rising winds, gathering darkness and the heavy conditions were forced to descend. After they topped out on their successful return, Paul, who had a very reticent reputation, turned to Cuthbertson remarking ‘that the route could well be the first real grade VI he’d ever done’ – the latest guidebook gives Guerdon Grooves IX,8.

The second ascent came on Saturday 28^th January on the final day of a highly successful International Winter Meet at the hands of Nick Bullock, Guy Robertson and visiting American Bayard Russell. Bullock, who led the crux pitch, declined to offer a number although he rated it ‘Tricky!’ which on the Bullock scale means Guerdon Grooves is certainly no pushover. Anyone after the third ascent might want to heed Bullock’s comment that there was ‘possibly, not as much gear as you’d want’. He was less cryptic about Guerdon Grooves quality rating it ‘Outrageously Good!’

Look out for a full report on the International Meet in Climb 86, which will also feature a lead article by Nick Bullock describing the highs and lows of new routing.