New Routes from Chamonix Based Brits

A group of expat Chamonix based Brits have been busy lately climbing several new routes on the Rive Gauche (The Left Bank) of the Argentiere Glacier. Nick Bullock and Andy Benson have done the majority of the new lines with a little help from Jon Bracy, Kenton Cool and Neil Brodie.

The climbs are all relatively short, often with little protection and were led ground up with leader placed gear. Consequently the area that all the climbs are located in has been named Sector Highlands and Neil Brodie has described the climbing as being ‘similar to climbing in a Scottish quarry’.

None of the routes have been graded below Scottish VII 7 and the hardest route, Captain Caveman was given VIII 9. On his blog Nick Bullock writes that ‘This type of climbing was a real test of nerve. Pushing on into no-mans-land with no idea what grade it would be, what protection was available and what type of climbing would come is unbelievably rewarding no matter where it is. The climbs will never be great mountain classics and we didn’t climb them to spray about what great climbers we are, but having had some really fantastic days out, I wanted to share the climbs.’

To read about Homage to Homeland (M6, VII7) Homeward Bound (M6+, VIII 8) Bringing Home the Bacon (M6+, VII 8) and Captain Caveman (M7+, VIII 9) visit Nick Bullocks blog.

For photos of many of the routes being climbed and a topo go to Pete Benson’s Flickr page.

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